Here are some tips for successful 3D photography. Remember, you're creating an illusion of three dimensions, and there are some restrictions on the techniques you can use to pull it off.

3D photograph has a long and insteresting history, going back to the nineteenth century, when Sir Charles Wheatstone created the first stereoscope.  Most upper and middle class Victorian households had a stereo viewer, and 3D photocards of exotic lands and nature were very popular.  When the 3D movie craze of the early 1950s came along, there were around 100 models of home stereo cameras on the market; the Stereo Realist and Kodak models are still popular among photographers and are available on eBay.  These are film cameras; the world is probably ready for a moderately priced digital model. I used to use a Nimslo, which used a special processing method to create prints with special lenticular lenses that required no glasses (much like the novelty 3D post cards).

On the following page are some tips I've found useful over the years.

Some tips:

• The more parallel in all dimensions the camera are, the less distortion you'll have.
• Try to keep away from close objects.  Avoid things like poles, trees, etc. that are so close they only show up in one frame.  For an interaxial (the distance between the lenses) of 2 1/2 inches, your nearest object should be six feet away.
• Try to keep things within a proper 3D frame -  avoid exaggerated effects and close objects too close to the edge.  They confuse the brain and can tire viewers.
• Because you're applying red and cyan filters, objects in those colors are going to have trouble with proper separation.  Try for a balanced range of colors.  Large white areas and highly reflective surfaces can also be difficult to deal with.
• Outdoor shots work better because of the natural light and not having to worry about objects too close to the cameras.

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